To begin our Spring series of 'Meet the Jeweller', we had the pleasure of chatting to Lucy Martin, a London-based jeweller whose work combines gemstones, oxidised silver and gold to create one-of-a-kind pieces.
Can you tell us about what first drew you to jewellery making, and how your creative journey began?
I left school quite young and went on to study a general Art and Design foundation, followed by a two-year Jewellery and Silversmithing course. That gave me the initial grounding, but much of what I do now is self-taught through years of making and experimentation.
Over time I’ve developed a language of my own. Jewellery appealed to me because it sits at such an intimate intersection between object and identity. It lives with the body and becomes part of someone’s personal expression.
What continues to draw me in is the combination of craftsmanship, materials and meaning, creating small objects that accompany people through the important moments of their lives.
How do you select the gemstones that feature in your work? Does the stone come first, or the initial idea?
I usually begin with a sense of structure or composition, the architecture of the piece and how it will sit on the body. Once that framework is clear to me, I start selecting gemstones that will bring colour, depth and balance to the design.
I spend a lot of time sourcing coloured stones and I’m always drawn to unusual tones or combinations. I work with both faceted and cabochon stones, and I enjoy seeing how a story begins to develop as different colours, opacities and shapes are placed together.
‘Modern armour’ and ‘quiet strength’ are phrases used to describe your work. What does that mean to you personally?
Those phrases resonate because jewellery can hold emotional weight as well as aesthetic value.
I often think of jewellery as a kind of modern armour, something that sits close to the body and carries meaning for the wearer. Many of my clients choose pieces to mark a moment of change or achievement: a new chapter, a milestone, sometimes even a difficult transition.
“Quiet strength” reflects the feeling I hope the work carries. The pieces aren’t loud, but they have presence, weight and intention.
The use of oxidised silver and 18ct gold is striking in your pieces. What draws you to these materials and finishes?
I’m fascinated by the contrast between oxidised silver and 18ct yellow gold. I like the edge it gives to a design.
The deep black of the oxidised silver creates a dramatic backdrop that allows the colour of the gemstones to really emerge, while the gold introduces warmth and light. I prefer to use both metals in a satin finish, it helps the metal work contrast with the lustre of the gemstones.
Do you have a favourite gemstone or colour combination you return to?
I’m endlessly drawn to coloured stones and I tend to go through phases of working with particular combinations. Recently I’ve enjoyed tonal palettes more than strongly contrasting ones, seeing many shades of one colour together and highlighting the breadth you can find in gemstones is always interesting to me.
But the colours that always capture my attention are those oceanic blue-greens. From luminous lagoon tones to darker, stormier shades, that mix of blue and green, they’re catnip to me and I find it hard to not buy them when I see them.
Looking ahead, are there new directions or ideas you’re excited to explore next?
For me it’s rarely about dramatic shifts. The work tends to evolve through small, iterative changes, adding a new element, exploring a slightly different construction, or adding a subtle texture to a familiar form.
Over time those small adjustments begin to broaden the language of my work. That slow evolution is something I really value, allowing each piece to build naturally on what came before it.
Thank you so much to Lucy for taking the time to speak with us. You can view Lucy's current collection on her website here. Please also visit and follow on Instagram to keep up-to-date with her latest work.
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