Next in our Meet the Jeweller series, we had the pleasure of chatting to Holly Berkley, a wire work artist from Somerset.
You began making jewellery as a teenager - what first drew you to it, and what were those early pieces like?
I started making simple wire work jewellery from handmade world beads after I was given a jewellery making catalogue and was taken to a huge bead shop in London. I sold them at my mum’s work at Poole University and little makers markets. This paid for me to buy more beads and I soon became interested in making all the parts of my jewellery out of wire instead of buying findings.
How did your degree in art and your wider creative journey (music, fire dancing, performance) influence the way you approach jewellery today?
It taught me to see the potential for artistic expression in the every day. To be able to entertain and enrich life with creation and performance is something I am very grateful and driven to do.
Wirework is central to your practice - what excites you most about the medium, and which techniques do you return to again and again?
Wire work is a diverse art form which is ever evolving and lends itself to a whole raft of styles, yet goes back more than 4000 years to the Egyptian dynasty.
I love being able to take a simple piece of wire and make something out of it that shows imagination and ingenuity, something so complex that one would find it hard to see how the effect was achieved.
I often return to the spiral in many forms. The golden ratio and Fibonacci sequence with its spiral heart can be seen in all of nature. I use it as a repeating pattern as well as at the centre of my floral pieces.
You’ve created wedding crowns and commissions for brides. Can you share a favourite story behind one of these special pieces?
It is such a pleasure to be part of a brides special day. From matching what she wants to her dress and hair style, making pieces for her family and knowing that my work will be passed down to the next generation. There are often tears of joy when I hand over the final pieces.
What role do gemstones, beads, or unusual materials play in your work, and how do you decide what to use in each design?
Choosing that extra little sparkle often comes down to colour or style of the piece. For example in a wedding piece I often incorporate pearls for the timelessness. In the deadly nightshade collection that was featured in Vogue magazine I used black onyx beads to represent the beautiful berries.
Do you enjoy sourcing vintage and antique craft supplies as much as the making itself? What’s been your most memorable find?
I adore hunting for vintage and antique craft supplies both here and abroad. It makes me so happy to go through the process of finding them, cleaning them up and the reactions from my customers, finding out what they are going to do with them and their joy at rummaging through all the new and strange things I have to offer.
I have so many stories of amazing finds. One of my favourite was when I found and antique lace making cushion in Brittany France. It was fully handmade and I found one just like it in a museum in Europe.
Many of your pieces combine delicacy with strength. How do you balance artistry and durability in wirework?
The combination of wires gives the piece strength and flexibility. One of my favourite parts of the making process is sculpting the finished woven piece into a more natural form. You can really see the piece coming together, giving it life.
As a teacher of workshops, festivals, and now through kits, what’s the most rewarding part of helping others discover jewellery making?
People coming to me and telling me that I taught them years ago and showing how much they have improved and that they are still loving it. I always warn people that wire work is addictive!
Has teaching changed the way you see your own practice?
Thinking through how you are going to pass on the skills means that you have to study yourself very carefully. What is the most simple and effective way of doing something.
I myself also learn from my students. They might twist the wire in a different way, creating a new effect I hadn’t thought of. It’s really fascinating. I’m learning all the time.
Life sounds very full between business, family, and a 300-year-old home - how does mindfulness connect to your making?
Making helps me to relax and become absorbed in what I am doing, in a flow state I can become fully immersed in creating instead of worrying about the million and one things on my to do list. I have a little making basket with my wire and a few basic tools in it that I take with me and make on the go, whether I’m waiting for an appointment or sitting in the car.
What’s one tool or material in your studio you couldn’t live without?
My Xuron tweezer nose pliers. They were quite expensive, but I have had them for years. They have survived a lot of use and abuse and are fantastic for precision work.
Is there a new technique or style you’re eager to explore in the future?
I have just purchased a whole silver smithing studio of high end tools from someone who didn’t want to do it anymore. I enrolled in a short silver smithing course at the "Make it with Kim” studio in Kingswood Bristol. This has led me to being invited to teach a wire working foundation course at Kim's studio and I’m already working on a wedding ring commission.
You’ve been featured in Vogue, Country Living, and more. What was it like seeing your work in those contexts?
As a one woman band it’s amazing to have people contact you out of the blue for something so prestigious. To have recognition for your work is very empowering and it leads on to other exciting opportunities.
What advice would you give to someone nervous about starting jewellery making without formal training?
Wire working is not an expensive hobby. You only need three tools and some wire to start and there are now so many wonderful makers out there sharing skills that you can learn by yourself easily.
With your new Search Press book coming out in 2025, what can readers expect, and what was the process of writing it like?
The new book has twenty beautiful projects covering a wide range of wire working techniques for beginners to advanced skills. At the start is a compendium of basic skills to get you started. I chose the projects that use the most popular skills I get asked for. I have been teaching and making kits for years so have practiced explaining the skills in a way that it easy to understand.
Having the Search Press team behind me has made it such an enjoyable experience. They have been with me every step of the way with advice and help as well as fantastic professional photography and editing. I could never have achieved this without them and I’m so proud to have such a professional hard back book that will allow me to pass on my skills.
Holly's book full of exciting projects is available here.
Visit Holly's website here to stay-up-date on her latest projects, events and products.
0 comments